On Saturday, I went to visit Amanohashidate, which is located in the northern part of Kyoto prefecture on the Miyazu Bay. From Sannomiya, it took about 3.5 hours to get there by train (and I was using the express trains not the local ones...) So, with that in mind, I left my apartment bright and early (and by bright and early, I actually mean dark and early because the sun wasn't even up yet...)
And because I'm sure you're curious, about why Amanohashidate, it doesn't seem like a very well known place. But actually, in fact, it is one of the three of Japan's "Three Scenic Views" or 日本三景. (The other two being the torii gate at Itsukushima Shrine (Miyajima's 'floating' torii gate), which I've seen a couple times, and the islands of Matsushima in Miyagi, which I have not been to). Anyway, basically the main purpose of going there is to see the 3.6km long (and about 20-170m wide, depending where you're at) sandbar that connects land on either side of the bay.
Also, there are viewpoints at higher elevations on both sides of the bay, and depending which side you go to, the view is supposed to look either like a dragon climbing into the sky (on the station side), or like a dragon flying into the heavens (on the opposite side). But the only way you can see this view is if you look at it while doing 'matanozoki'. From what I learned, matanozoki means that you basically stand with your legs apart and then look upside down through the hole in your legs. Sounds kind of silly, right? But so many people were doing it! As for me, I think the western image of a dragon is different from the eastern image (theirs doesn't have any wings after all...more like a big snake...), so I think it was kind of hard for me to get the image that the Japanese people were going for.
Found this one on the internet...guess this is what the dragon image is supposed to look like...
But I'm getting ahead of myself. So let's go back a little bit. When I first arrived at Amanohashidate station, I stopped at the tourist information desk to pick myself up a map. But I got so much more than just a map. The woman that I was talking with gave me all kinds of information. Actually, she had so much to say...I'm really curious to know if she always talks that much (the other staff didn't seem to talk so long with the other Japanese tourists), or if she was just really happy to talk with a foreigner who could talk with her in Japanese. Anyway, whatever it was, she gave me all kinds of tips. She basically went through the entire map with me and pointed out all of the areas of interest, and the methods of getting there. (It actually turned out that most of the major points of interest were all quite close, within 5-10 minutes walking distance, from the station and as well when you got to the other side of the sandbar). When she asked if I was planning to walk or bike or take the boat, she seemed really surprised when I told her I wanted to walk it all, and even asked if there were paths to go up to the viewpoints rather than taking the lifts. In fact, I think she was kind of shocked, because she went on to give me the prices for the boat/bus/lifts (going one way), in case, and she actually said this, "in case I got tired". Hahaha....she was underestimating my ability to walk, but nonetheless, it was very kind of her. After that she made sure to point out that there were many cafes and restaurants along the way, on both sides of the bay, so I didn't need to worry about getting hungry. Did I look hungry?? So, armed with all that information, I was about to head off, when she asked if I'd researched the trains to get back yet. I'd taken a quick look, but was going to look more closely later, because I didn't know how long I'd be there for. So, she went and got another paper with all the train times going back towards Kyoto/Osaka, and then highlighted all the times that express trains ran at. She even made a suggestion or two about which ones I might try to catch so that I didn't get home too late (late being ~19:30). That's late? But, wow! Two thumbs up and five stars for helpfulness at this information desk!
So, when I finally set out to go on my adventure, I headed straight for the sand bar. But, before you get on to it, you have to cross a little bridge called "Kaisenkyou" and it is a rotating bridge. I had read about it before coming...this bridge is able to turn 90 degrees to let boats go through the channel. This type of bridge is really unusual, and apparently seeing it in action is a kind of rare event. But apparently, I had awesome timing! Because, when I got there, they were roping it off because, not one, but two boats were coming through!! Lucky! It was definitely interesting!! But you don't have to take my word for it...look for yourself below...although, maybe my angle wasn't quite the best...
Bridge starting to open out...
Fully open!
Here come the boats!
Bye boat!
If this video isn't working, try to watch it here.
After crossing the bridge, there's a kind of long strip of land that runs perpendicular to the main sandbar, and according to my map, a type of rose is supposed to grow wild along that part. So I took I little walk down that way, until my "woke up too early" brain realized that it was March, and there was no way they would be in bloom at this time of year. But I did find some other nice things to see.
What?! There were a lot of shells, but I found this too!!
Next, I had to cross one more little bridge, and it was onto the main part of the sandbar.
Many people chose to rent bikes to cross, but I walked. The information I had said it would take about an hour to cross by walking...and I think it did take about that long on the way there (although the way back only took 35 minutes...I'm not sure why...I was still wandering around and taking pictures that time too...) Also, I was really interested to hear some other people talking...some of them were kind of shocked about how 'long' the sand bar was...there was a pair of older women who gave up and turned around when they saw a sign saying there was still 2 more kilometers to go. Has my view of distance become that skewed? Is 2km a long distance for most people? Anyway, the sandbar is covered with pine trees (although my Canadian friends, they are a different species of pine tree than what we're used to, so that's why they look so different). Many of them are roped off and have signs with descriptions about something, unfortunately, my ability to read kanji isn't that good yet, so I'm not sure of what a lot of them said.
The main path that goes through the middle of Amanohashidate
Lots of these groups of rocks on the beach side...my assumption is to sit and enjoy the view...
So many birds!
The trees were really tall!!
One of the cases where I wish I could read more kanji...
There was a guy out there just randomly fishing in the water...
I wish I could explain just how tall some of them were...
There are also many rocks inscribed with various things along the way. Some are apparently poetry, whereas others are indicators of various locations/events.
Part way down the sandbar, there is a shrine which is located next to "Isoshimizu" which is a well that is apparently a fresh water well. Which is really interesting, as the sandbar is surrounded by salt water. Of course, wells come from groundwater, but still...
Coming up to the shrine
The shrine
Isoshimizu --- I had to borrow this one from the internet, because I thought I took a picture, but apparently not.
Walking along Amanohashidate was really relaxing. It was so tranquil and serene...you could listen to the water, the birds....Just listen....
Once I reached the other side, a short walk put me on a shopping street along the way to Motoise Kono Shrine. Actually on that street the shop owners were selling some really interesting things, including these puffer fish things that were actually all puffed out, and looked really intriguing. I was about to take a picture of them (because I really wanted to show everyone), when I noticed a small sign that said "no pictures". Ah! Why????!!! I was so disappointed, but you need to respect the rules. As I continued along my way, a rather grim looking old woman in one of the shops gave me a nod. I guess she had been watching me and was acknowledging my compliance with the rules when I could've just gone ahead and pretended I didn't see the sign.
On the other side...
Anyway, when I got to the shrine, another interesting event -- there was a Japanese couple all dressed up in traditional wedding clothes getting their wedding photos done. But, no, I didn't take pictures of that either. Would be rude without asking. I had to go through the shrine grounds to get to the next location I wanted to go to, and there were some interesting things there too (like a statue of someone sitting on a turtle), but again, there were signs that clearly indicated taking pictures was prohibited on the grounds.
At the entrance to the shrine (before the 'no pictures' signs)
After some internet searching, I was able to find a picture of this statue on the shrine's website...
After that, I headed over to the area where you could go up a chair lift or cable car (it cost 330 yen one way and you could choose which you rode) to get to Kasamatsu Park (one of the viewpoints). Originally, my plan had been to walk up or take the lift up and walk down after....However. I took the chair lift to go up, and since it was kind of fun, I took it on the way down later as well (plus on the way down, you can actually see the view, which you can't really do on the way up). Actually I was thinking...why was there such a long line for the cable car...it's easier to see from the chairs and you don't have to worry about other people standing in front of you...but that's just my opinion.
Kasabou -- this cute little guy is everywhere...I guess it's like Amanohashidate's mascot
Riding the chair lift is fun!
Taken with my reverse camera...so it isn't straight
Once I got to the top, I of course, took some requisite pictures of the view (which is pretty amazing by the way!)
It's just too cute!!
Which version do you like better...landscape or potrait?
Pano view
At the top...
Then I went and talked to the person who was selling tickets to the bus that would take you up the mountain a little bit more to Nariaiji Temple. My question simply being about how long it would take to walk up there. Looking a little surprised (again!), he told me it would take about 30 minutes. Not bad at all!! So, after thanking him for the information, I started to go up the path, when I heard him calling to me from behind. He came running with an English version of a pamphlet about the temple, which also included a really nice map and some interesting background stories. I was really surprised, but it was so thoughtful---I definitely appreciated it!
I actually really liked this map!
Along the way up, there were some clearings where I got some really nice views.
It was actually a pretty easy walk too...it didn't even start to get steep until I got to a sign that indicated the shrine was about 450m more to go. At that point the inclination increased, but it wasn't particulary difficult. The first thing that you reach is the gate to the temple.
Temple gate
Right after the gate, on the left, was a big 5 storey-pagoda. And there was still snow around it!! There was also a small pond, and then a pathway to go up to an observation point.
As for the observation point. I don't really have words to describe it. The view was breath-taking. I couldn't help but to laugh, because I felt so lucky to see it. Totally worth the long trip out there. Look. (although it's so much better in real life).
Going back to Nariaiji Temple...as usual with temples...there were a bunch of stairs to get up to it. And beside the stairs, about half way up was the temple bell. Which according to my pamphlet, has never been struck and never will be.
This is where the bell that is never to be rung is located...
The story about the bell.
At the main building of the temple...it seemed like they were doing some kind of ceremony inside because there was lots of chanting going on.
In front of the main building, there is a water basin with a really cool dragon figure. The basin itself is apparently made from iron and is some kind of important cultural asset.
There were also a lot of jizou too...
On the way back to the other of Amanohashidate, I spent most of the walk back on the beach side, enjoying the sunshine.
When I got to the other side, I took a quick look at Chionji Temple (maybe less than 2 minutes from the rotating bridge). Like at most temples, you can buy fortunes there, but this one was really interesting, because they were shaped like little fans.
And that was the majority of my day out at Amanohashidate.
Also...because I know some of you might find it interesting...the train ride to get out there took me through the mountains (lots of tunnels), and along some plains in between the mountains, with some traditional looking towns.
Finally, this was a preview I made yesterday, but I think it's also a good summary of my day, so if you're interested, you can watch this short video. (It includes probably most of the videos and photos I included in this blog post though...)
